How to try a new skincare product on a small area

To test a new skincare product, the American Academy of Dermatology suggests applying it to a quarter-sized spot where it won’t be rubbed or washed off, such as the underside of your arm or the bend of your elbow, twice a day for seven to 10 days. If you see redness, itching or swelling, wash it off and don’t use the product. A home test lowers risk. It can’t rule out every reaction.

Step by step

1. Choose a spot the product won’t be rubbed or washed from: inner arm or bend of the elbow.
2. Apply a quarter-sized amount at the thickness you would normally use.
3. Repeat twice a day for seven to 10 days.
4. Check the area daily for redness, itching, swelling or rash.
5. No reaction after seven to 10 days? You can start using the product as directed.

Testing a cleanser or wash-off product

Leave it on the test spot for about five minutes, or as long as its directions say, then rinse.

If you react

• Wash the product off gently as soon as you can.
• Don’t use it again.
• A cool compress or plain petroleum jelly can soothe mild irritation.
• See a dermatologist if the reaction is severe, doesn’t improve, or you can’t work out which ingredient caused it.
• Seek urgent care for swelling of the face, lips or throat, or trouble breathing.

Irritation vs allergy

• Irritation is common with some actives such as retinol and exfoliating acids, and is often mild and short-lived. Reducing frequency usually helps.
• An allergic reaction tends to itch, can spread beyond the application area, and may get worse with repeated use. Stop and don’t retry.

If you aren’t sure which it is, stop using the product. Why skincare stings.

Face-specific caution

Some people test a second time on a small area of the face, for example along the jawline, before full use. Keep any product intended for the face away from the eyes unless it is an eye product used as directed.

Testing actives

For retinol, some temporary dryness can be expected. A test spot tells you about obvious reactions, but the real test is a slow start on your face as the label directs. How to start retinol.

Make testing easier

• Test one product at a time. Why one at a time.
• Keep notes: the product, the date, and any reaction.
• Keep the full ingredient list of anything that caused a reaction, so you can spot patterns.
• Consider professional patch testing if reactions keep happening. A dermatologist can test for specific allergens.

What a test can’t tell you

A reaction can develop later, or only on the face where skin is thinner, or only in the sun. Keep watching once you start full use, and stop if irritation occurs.

If an Ozera product causes a reaction, you can report it to us. Include the product name, order number if available, and what happened. We refund reactions without asking for the bottle back.

Photography: COPAL / Unsplash. Editorial photograph.