It depends on the product. Moisturizers and humectant serums are often applied to slightly damp skin, which many people find more comfortable. Retinol and some other actives are usually applied to fully dry skin, because damp skin can make irritation more likely for some people. Sunscreen goes on over settled skincare. When a label says, follow the label.
Slightly damp skin: when it helps
- Moisturizer after washing. The American Academy of Dermatology suggests applying moisturizer soon after washing to help trap moisture.
- Humectant serums (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) can feel more comfortable on slightly damp skin, especially in dry climates.
“Damp” means patted with a towel, not dripping.
Dry skin: when it matters
- Retinol. Many labels say clean, dry skin. Starting retinol.
- Exfoliating acids and other strong actives, per their labels.
- Anything that stings on damp skin. That’s a sign to wait.
Why damp skin can increase irritation
Damp skin can change how a product spreads and feels. With retinol and other products whose labels call for dry skin, applying too soon after washing can mean more stinging. Waiting until skin is fully dry is a simple precaution.
A combined routine
- Morning: cleanse → pat dry → serum → moisturizer (skin can be slightly damp) → wait until settled → sunscreen.
- Retinol evening: cleanse → wait until fully dry → retinol → moisturizer.
- Non-retinol evening: cleanse → pat dry → moisturizer.
How long to wait between steps.
Dry climates and indoor heating
In very dry air, applying a humectant serum to bare, dry skin with nothing on top can feel tight. Follow it with a moisturizer. Adjusting for weather.
Further reading: American Academy of Dermatology: Tips to relieve dry skin · American Academy of Dermatology: Retinoid or retinol?
003 Retinol Night Serum goes on clean, dry skin. 001 Copper Peptide Cream follows, morning and night.
Photography: Christian Buehner / Unsplash. Editorial photograph.