Retinol is a form of vitamin A used in cosmetics. It belongs to the retinoid family, which also includes prescription ingredients. It is usually applied in the evening, introduced slowly, and paired with daily sunscreen, because it can cause dryness and irritation while skin adjusts, and because retinol itself breaks down in light.
The retinoid family
- Retinyl esters (such as retinyl palmitate): milder cosmetic forms.
- Retinol: the best-known over-the-counter form.
- Retinal (retinaldehyde): another cosmetic form.
- Prescription retinoids (such as tretinoin): stronger, prescribed and supervised by a clinician.
Adapalene is a retinoid-like ingredient that is also available over the counter in the US for acne, in drug-labeled products. Over-the-counter cosmetic retinol products often don’t state their percentage.
Why retinol is an evening ingredient
- Light sensitivity of the ingredient. Retinol degrades in light, which is one reason it’s packaged in opaque containers and used at night.
- Your skin during the day. Retinoid users are generally advised to be diligent with sun protection. Labels, including ours, say to use sunscreen during the day.
- Routine logic. Evening keeps it separate from morning actives such as vitamin C. Retinol and vitamin C.
How to start
The American Academy of Dermatology advises starting with a low-strength product and using it every other night or less at first, building up slowly. Your product’s own label comes first. Ours says to begin twice a week.
- Cleanse and let your skin dry fully.
- Apply the amount on the label, avoiding the eyes, the corners of the nose and the lips.
- Follow with moisturizer.
- Wear sunscreen the next day, and every day.
- Increase frequency only if your skin is comfortable.
What adjustment can look like
Some people notice dryness, tightness or flaking when they start. If that happens, reduce how often you use it. Burning, swelling or persistent redness is a sign to stop. When stinging is a warning.
Cautions
- Pregnancy: dermatologists advise against using retinoids while pregnant. If you are pregnant, planning to be, or nursing, talk to your doctor first.
- Other actives: go carefully with exfoliating acids and benzoyl peroxide on the same night.
- Prescription skincare: ask your prescriber before adding retinol.
- Waxing and other procedures: tell your provider you use retinol.
What retinol labels can and can’t tell you
A cosmetic retinol label names the ingredient and gives directions. It often doesn’t state a percentage, and it shouldn’t promise to treat a condition. Treat big result claims with care. What a percentage tells you.
Further reading: American Academy of Dermatology: Retinoid or retinol? · American Academy of Dermatology: Pregnancy skin care · FDA: Wrinkle treatments and other anti-aging products
Our 003 Retinol Night Serum lists retinol, hexapeptide-11 and bisabolol. It is an optional evening step, before cream, starting twice a week.
Photography: Dolunay laylay / Unsplash. Editorial photograph.