Ozera 004 Vitamin C Serum is a morning serum made with 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (a vitamin C derivative), niacinamide and panthenol. Shake it, press three to four drops over your face and neck after cleansing, then follow with your cream and sunscreen. Each bottle holds 1 fl oz / 30 ml.
Which vitamin C is it?
“Vitamin C serum” covers many different ingredients. The ingredient in ours is 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, also listed as ethyl ascorbic acid. It is vitamin C (ascorbic acid) with an ethyl group attached.
Why that matters: pure ascorbic acid is famously unstable and can discolor and degrade once it meets water, air and light. Independent ingredient references describe ethyl ascorbic acid as much more stable, and note that it dissolves in both water and oil. They also describe its research base as promising but less complete than pure ascorbic acid’s. Its supplier says the skin converts it into ascorbic acid. We treat that as a supplier claim.
If you are comparing products, read the exact name in the ingredient list. Ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and ethyl ascorbic acid are all “vitamin C” on a front label. They are not interchangeable.
Why niacinamide is in the same bottle
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 and one of the most widely used cosmetic ingredients. You may have read that vitamin C and niacinamide shouldn’t be combined. That idea comes from older work on pure ascorbic acid under conditions quite unlike normal skincare use, and it is widely considered outdated. Here the two are formulated together by the manufacturer, in one finished product. Read our longer explainer on niacinamide and vitamin C.
Because niacinamide is already in this serum, you don’t need a separate niacinamide product to “add” it. If you already use one, compare the directions before layering.
The full formula, in plain English
- Aqua — water.
- Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol — humectants and solvents that help hold water and keep the formula even. Hexanediol also supports the preservative system.
- Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate — a modified starch powder that affects texture and finish. It is one reason the label says to shake.
- Niacinamide — vitamin B3.
- Panthenol — provitamin B5, a humectant.
- 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid — the vitamin C derivative.
- Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Carboxyethyl Acrylate Crosspolymer — a thickener that gives the serum its body.
- Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids — a fatty acid and lipids.
- Tocopheryl Acetate — a stable form of vitamin E.
- Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid — adjust and hold the pH.
- Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum — natural gums for texture.
- Ethylhexylglycerin — a skin-conditioning ingredient that also supports preservation.
Our manufacturer lists the formula as fragrance-free, alcohol-free and vegan. Those are the manufacturer’s stated attributes, not third-party certifications.
How to use it each morning
- Cleanse and pat your skin dry.
- Shake the bottle.
- Press three to four drops over your face and neck, keeping away from the eye area.
- Apply eye gel if you use one, then your cream. Our 001 Copper Peptide Cream is designed to follow it.
- Finish with a broad-spectrum sunscreen, following its directions. This serum has no SPF.
The code 004 identifies the formula. It doesn’t mean the serum goes on fourth: in our range it is the first product after cleansing.
Where retinol fits
003 Retinol Night Serum is our evening serum. We suggest vitamin C in the morning and retinol on your chosen evenings, so the two are used at different times. Start them separately rather than on the same day. More on retinol and vitamin C in one routine.
The serum on its own, or the Duo?
Choose the serum if you already have a moisturizer you like. The Duo pairs a full-size serum with a full-size 001 Copper Peptide Cream for $85, which is $7 less than buying them separately. Compare the sets.
What we can’t tell you
- We don’t publish the vitamin C or niacinamide percentage, because it hasn’t been verified to us in writing.
- We don’t promise brightening or any other visible result, or a timeline.
- We don’t claim that this serum replaces sunscreen. It doesn’t.
Stop using it if…
Stop if you get stinging that doesn’t fade, redness or irritation. It is for external use only; keep it away from your eyes and out of reach of children, and store it somewhere cool and dry. If a reaction is severe or persistent, see a doctor, and let us know.
Further reading: INCIDecoder: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid · INCIDecoder: Niacinamide · American Academy of Dermatology: How to apply sunscreen · FDA: Cosmetics labeling guide
See the current price, full ingredient list and directions on the 004 Vitamin C Serum page.
Photography: 360floralflaves / Unsplash.